Dani's Views on the GSE Trip

My views of the trip to India were the flip side of the coin. Yes, we all had comfort zones that we were all forced to break through. I encourage breaking through personel barriers that we all have, I never did overcome my fear of the "squatter toilets" though. The memories that I have of India will not be of the toilets, the traffic or the food but of all the wonderful friends and people I met over there that I hope to stay in contact with for a very long time. I had the privledge of having some real heart to heart, no holds barred discussions and breaking down of cultural barriers with several Indians that I befriended. We truly were treated as dignitaries, if we ever merely asked about something, they would go out of their way to obtain it for us.
The family relationships in India are phenomenal, most people that I know would never want to live with their parents, grandparents, aunts/uncles, inlaws. etc. but most people in India have very extended families that they reside with.
We all had difficulties, mine included a high stress breakfast ending with tears running down my face. Having a "type A personality" the Indian carefree ways regarding time was difficult at first, I was fortunately able to let go of this a little and hope to continue to let go now that I am back at home.
A needed survival tactic to travel to India is to have a very open mind, forget about all that you know in the United Stated and just "become Indian".

Thank you to Gib, Clyde and the rest of the Fort Dodge Rotary. Thanks to all the folks at Fort Dodge Foods that survived the month without me. Thank you to Tom, Molly, Kathy and Susan for playing a role in making this trip wonderful. Thank you to my Dad and Jan for making it possible to get away for a month. Thank you everyone for giving me the chance to have a great experience!

A few quick reflections on the experience

A few reflections on the experience:
In my opinion, this was one of the most amazing and one of the most difficult experiences of my life. So often during the month I was way outside my comfort zone—overwhelmed by so many different things. One friend warned me that I would experience sensory overload—boy was he ever right!

The hospitality and attention that we all received was much more than we dreamed and at times made us quite uncomfortable, especially when we had an upset stomach and we were offered more food—none of which was familiar and the sight and smell made our stomach pitch even more. The traffic in India is in one word—INSANE—I was sure we were going to be in a serious accident several times. I am very relieved that we were not, but we had several close calls and we saw the aftermath of what appeared to be a terrible accident between a motorcycle and a truck. The main mode of communication when driving is the horn—and there is a continuous symphony of various horns going at all times, the trucks and buses seem to have various tunes instead of a regular horn, and when a vehicle backs up different tunes are played instead of the traditional beep-beep-beep that we are familiar with. It’s almost like ring tones for cell phones, but horn tunes for vehicles. These noises are mixed in with the mooing of cows, the barking and sometimes fighting of dogs, cowbells, bicycle bells, and various loudspeakers blasting nasal, tonal chants or the nasal tonal speeches of political or religious leaders. It seems that everyone also talks louder—perhaps because of all the other noise.

The food is about as different from American food as you can get. It is again high on the sensory scale—both temperature wise and spice wise.

Although the month was a challenge for me—I feel it was a worthy beneficial experience. No culture is perfect and I believe we can always learn from others. The challenges that India faces in terms of establishing a better infrastructure and dealing with all the poverty and large population are at times overwhelming; however, their dedication to education and their families is truly inspiring! They are very proud of the joined family and the low divorce rate in their country. At one Rotary meeting everyone was introduced and we were also informed how long they had been married.

I thank all who made this experience possible, along the other team members, with whom I shared some incredible memories with!! We had some great laughs and some tough times but all tolled it was an experience of a lifetime that I am thankful to have had!

In "Indian Dress" at the Taj Mahal

Feb. 12 - 15

Tuesday, February 12, 2008: Arrive in Durg
Our last train trip was quite comfortable, we enjoyed the extra room with the beds that were only stacked two high—and the privacy curtains. It was also nice that our luggage all fit underneath our seats so we did not have to pile it in the aisle between us and on our beds. At our arrival in Durg we were greeted as usual, by a group of Rotarians with marigold Leigh, and then taken to our host homes. There we had time to get freshened up before we gathered at our coordinator’s house for breakfast.

After breakfast we visited a hostel near the hospital for family members of patients to stay. As is the custom we were offered tea and other Indian food but we were busting at the seams with chai and other Indian food and could not even force ourselves to politely taste anything. I think we had all reached our limit. We first visited a beautiful Jain temple and then we all had lunch at the home of a Rotarian. After lunch we went to a cow sanctuary where we were shown how cow urine and dung were used for a variety of products. One Rotarian drank a glass of cow urine to illustrate the benefits of cow urine. We were not at all interested or inclined to try it, but we did take the soap made out of cow milk, curd, ghee, urine and dung. After the tour we went to our host’s home to get ready for the evening meeting. It was scheduled for 8:00 p.m., but as is the practice here it began around 9:00 p.m. We gave our presentation and then after the meeting there was music, snacks and dancing. We were quite tired but some of the Rotarians had quite a bit of energy and enjoyed the dancing. Around 10:15 we gathered for dinner—another practice that we never adjusted to. We were as usual quite tired and ready for bed!

Wednesday, February 13, 2008: Travel to Raipur, Fly to Delhi
This morning we all gathered for breakfast at a Rotarian’s house in a nearby city and then loaded up vehicles with all of our luggage for a two hour drive to Raipur. In Raipur we had lunch and then gathered our extra luggage and items that we had sent back from the district conference. We finalized arrangements for our time in Delhi and got ready for our trip to the airport. Our flight to Delhi was uneventful and we were pleased to find our driver who took us to our “guesthouse”. We were pleasantly surprised by the nice accommodations—hot water, and western toilets with toilet paper were a very welcome sight. There were only two beds, but the caretaker (and we found out also our cook in the morning) brought in a mattress that Tom was able to sleep on.

Thursday, February 14, 2008: Visit to Agra
Our driver arrived promptly at 7:00 a.m. to drive us to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. We were just finishing breakfast which to our delight was omelets, and toast with peanut butter—yummy! The drive to Agra was at times slow going, but the roads in and around Delhi are an improvement from the other roads that we have traveled on. We arrived at the Taj Mahal around noon, and we were immediately descended upon by various vendors and tour guides. The competition must be quite fierce because they were very persistent! We walked to the Taj Mahal and purchased our tickets—it was nice to not be the only Caucasians and hardly anyone asked to have their photo with us. The weather was sunny and warm and we thoroughly enjoyed walking around the beautiful grounds at the Taj Mahal. After our visit we were quite hungry and very excited to go to McDonalds—they did not have hamburgers, but they did have chicken sandwiches and French fries that tasted just like what we remembered from home. Oh what a treat it was to eat food that we were used to. The next stop was a fort with a spectacular view of the Taj. Finally around 4:30 we headed back to Delhi, this time there was a lot of traffic, and we were all exhausted when we got back at 10:30.

Friday, February 15, 2008: Tour of Delhi and Flight Home
This morning we packed up and had another good breakfast. Our driver arrived as scheduled, and due to miscommunication we had to check out, so we loaded all of our luggage into and onto the car. We were very crowded but we knew it was just for one more day. We drove by the capital buildings, visited a museum and did some shopping. We also had lunch at KFC—it was quite similar but the chicken had a little zip to it that we didn’t remember tasting in the states. We did not have anywhere to go, and since we had our luggage we decided to head to the airport around 8:00 p.m. When we arrived they would not let us in until 3 hours before our flight left—so we had to pay to wait in another waiting area across the street—as is typical there were not enough seats and it was quite dirty and smelly but we knew it wouldn’t be for too long. Around 10:00 we headed over to stand in various lines and get checked in—the airport was very crowded, dirty and smelly. We finally found some seats and waited until we were finally able to board the plane for Amsterdam.

February 9 - 11

Saturday, February 9, 2008: Visit Bilaspur Rotary sites, and travel to Jabalpur
Today, we waited at our hosts for a while during the power outage—a seemingly common occurrence. Since I was at Susan’s house we visited the preschool next door that his wife runs. Then we went on a tour of a university—it was quite spread out. It was a Saturday so regular classes were not meeting but they did have an internet security conference that many were attending. After that we stopped at a few stores to shop at and then went to a wealthy Rotarian’s home for lunch. Our hosts had also prepared meals for us and were there to pick us up, but those plans were changed. After lunch we were able to go back to our hosts and do some packing. Next we gathered at Molly’s host and then toured part of the canal project that Rotary clubs had sponsored. The inner wheel also had funded the construction of a park with playground equipment. Even though it was dark out there were still a number of families out enjoying the grounds. Next we went to our hosts to pack up for our night train trip.

Sunday, February 10, 2008: Jabalpur
This morning we groggily got up around 5:30 a.m. on the train, and prepared to get off at Kitni at 6:00. A Rotarian from Jabalpur was waiting for us—he and several porters loaded all of our luggage and all of us into his vehicle, a small SUV. Then we stopped at his house where his wife and two kids were waiting to get in and join us. We were all exhausted from virtually no sleep and packed in the vehicle, the thought of piling three more people on top of our laps was out of the question. It was another example of the differences between our two cultures, we have learned that crowded to us, is extremely roomy to Indians.

After an hour and half drive to Jabalpur, where we passed many loaded bikes, trucks and ox carts heading to the market, we arrived at our coordinator’s house. The power was out; evidently it is shut off for two hours every morning to accommodate the power needs of various industries. After having tea, our hosts took us to their homes where we were eager to “shower” and put on clean (or rather cleaner) clothes.

Our first stop of the day was along a river where there are beautiful cliffs of marble rock. Since it was Sunday and a beautiful sunny day there were a number of people enjoying the day and the sites. It was very relaxing and beautiful. We went on a boat ride near to the falls along the cannon and we all found it striking and refreshing—being out in the fresh air in the sunshine was very enjoyable after several rainy, cool, dreary days.

Next we took a ropeway (a.k.a. cable car) trip over the falls—they were beautiful, our host called it India’s “Niagara Falls”. After reaching the other side, some other Rotarians met us and then took us in their vehicles to a village school where they were handing out toys and giving polio drops. It was very chaotic and seemed to be primarily a photo op for the Rotarians. Next we went to the “farm” of one of the Rotarians where we had lunch, and they had music playing. It was warm and after a night of little sleep we were quite exhausted and not very good conversationalists. We were ready to head back to our hosts. There we quickly changed and headed out to the meeting. Before the meeting Susan was able to see a dermatologist about her rash and he told her that she had a viral infection. He gave her a prescription (written on a napkin) and she felt much better knowing what it was, and getting something to help make her a little more comfortable. At the meeting we gave our presentation, and then had dinner—a huge crepe filled with a type of vegetable goulash. For dessert we had one of our favorites—ice cream! Even though it was early for bed by Indian standards we were all exhausted.

Monday, February 11, 2008: Depart Jabalpur in the evening—to Durg
This morning we gathered at my hosts house for breakfast—tea, fresh fruit, toast, and hard-boiled eggs. It tasted great, and we enjoyed the familiar tasting food that we were sure would not upset our stomachs. Our first stop was the school that my host owns—a boarding school outside of town with a large outdoor pool, basketball court, and some horses. Next we drove to a dam where we had a chance to again enjoy the sun and go for a boat ride. The other events that had been planned for the day had to be changed for various reasons—a trip to the high court (closed for an unannounced holiday), and a trip to the golf course (where we were not able to get permission for admittance).

We, along with many others, had other things to entertain us. Across the street from our host’s home a temple that had been illegally built and was burning torn down in preparation for an investors meeting later in the month. It had attracted quite the crowd and although it was peaceful the “Riot Police” van was there. We were also entertained at a “club” where we took a turn shooting snooker balls on the oldest snooker table in India—built in 1707. Next was a stop at a handicraft market and then back to our hosts to pack and have dinner before our last night train trip. I had to run to catch the train but was pleased to see that we were in fancier cars than we previously had been in—this time the bunks were only stacked two high, and we had curtains—it was also much easier to fit our luggage in—yeah!

Friday, February 8

Friday, February 8, 2008
This morning we had breakfast at our hosts and then were taken to Susan’s house where we met a legislative official who had made special arrangements for us to visit a “jungle” area and some of the local villages. Our first stop was at a nearby farm. The main crop for this area is rice, but this farmer grew vegetables—tomatoes, cauliflower, beets, some type of squash, and some other vegetables that we were not familiar with. We walked around to see various plots and were given some samples to try.

Next we drove to a guest house in the “jungle”—forest reserve. Here we had tea and snacks. Today Tom is not feeling well, and he decided to stay at the guest house and rest (and be near a bathroom). Our next stop was a site with a reproduction of a village home, for tourists to stay at when they visit. Next we went to a nearby village market, and “clinic”. Our host for the day, attracted large crowds and it was clear why he is such a popular politician in this area. He knew many by name, and was very open and caring. He also had an armed body guard with him at all times carrying an automatic weapon—not a site we are used to seeing.

The rest of day was spent stopping at various guests houses in the reserve for lunch, tea, snacks, and touring the reserve. The roads are quite good, by Indian standards, and there was not much traffic, only the occasional truck or ox cart. We also stopped at a site where some of the locals were preparing herbs for sale. We were given some to taste that was supposedly good for our digestion.

Molly and Dani went on a jeep ride to look for animals in the evening but were not able to see much—perhaps the cool, rainy weather has encouraged the wildlife to snuggle in for the evening. In the evening we were also treated to some tribal dancing and music, and were asked to join in. The villagers welcomed us into their dancing circle. After dinner we returned to our hosts where I think we all fell into bed exhausted.

Thursday, February 7

Thursday, February 7, 2008:
This morning we packed up at our hosts, and then Susan and I went to visit a college. It was nice to get to see a college after visiting a number of K – 12 schools. We were greeted by various school officials and a local media person who wanted to interview me about some of the differences in education between India and the United States.

We were also given a tour of their library, one of the largest libraries in Chhatsgar. We met with some students in an open courtyard on the campus, and then met with some of the faculty members. They were quite interested in our education system. While we were visiting the power went off—this seems to be common practice.

Next we went to our coordinator’s house where Dani was busy preparing our “American lunch”—macaroni and cheese, mash potatoes, and fried chicken. It smelled very good and some of us even had seconds. After lunch we loaded up the two vehicles for our trip to the next city—Bilaspur. The roads here are nothing like we have in the states, and we are not used to them or the way people drive here. We were not shocked, but we still jolted by a recent accident involving a motorcycle and truck. The motorcycle was crushed under the truck, and there was a large pool of blood—it is not surprising that a newspaper article dubbed the highways here in India “death traps”.

We arrived in Bilaspur around 7:00 p.m. and were picked up by our new hosts along a busy main city road—it was a little difficult and chaotic trying to unload, load and meet our new hosts while being passed and honked at by a number of vehicles during rush hour.

At our hosts we quickly changed and then went to the Rotary meeting, Dani was quite late, although in India that is often the norm, and she arrived in grand style—decked out in a beautiful turquoise saree complete with elaborate jewelry and make-up. There was not a computer projector available so we just used my laptop for our presentation. The meeting room had open windows to the street, so we had car honks as background music, and many extra guest—mosquitoes that we kept swatting.

After the meeting we went to out coordinator’s home for dinner. There we were entertained by several guests singing songs, and then were asked to sing also. We decided to sing the one song we have practiced—America the Beautiful. As seems to be the custom, we first had drinks and appetizers and then around 10:30 p.m. had dinner. We thought the appetizers were the meal so we had already filled up. The travel days are also quite draining so we were fading quickly.

Wednesday, February 6

Wednesday, February 6, 2008:
This morning the weather was again “unusually cool and rainy”. Evidently the weather here is usually quite a bit warmer and sunny. Of course, compared to our winter, the temperature was warm, but not as warm as we had anticipated so we were wearing several layers to keep us warm. We had been waiting to do some laundry, and our coordinator had asked our hosts to help us—so my host’s wife showed me their washing machine (it is much smaller than ours) and the spinner. She washed my clothes for a few minutes and then put them in the spinner. Since it was rainy outside she told me to spread out my clothes in the bedroom I was in and turn on the ceiling fan. She had already done her family’s laundry and it was strewn all over another room.

My host family did not have internet access at their home, but half a block away at a little shop in the back of a house I was able to get on the internet and for the first time the connection was broadband rather than dial-up so it was very quick. There was also a phone there where I was able to call home—it really is striking the contrasts between the old and the modern here in India.

Our first visit of the day was originally supposed to be the aluminum plant but due to security reasons we were not able to go there, our second stop was supposed to be the coal plant, but because of the rain that also did not work out. Plan C was to visit the school for the blind, deaf and mute, which the Rotary club sponsors. Our coordinator’s wife is the principal of the school. We visited a number of classrooms, and of course took photos. After the visit to the school, we stopped at a “tea house” for some tea and soft drinks. Next we went to a small store to get some groceries for preparing the food of our choice at our coordinator’s house the next day—a chance for us to eat more familiar tasting food. Molly and I were both not feeling well so we were not much help. We also stopped to do a little shopping for some souvenirs. Shopping here is a little different—each store just has one thing—like blankets and towels, or gold jewelry, or bangles, or CDs so it takes a little more time. They are also very small and crowded.

One of the most senior Rotarians treated us all to dinner at his house—which was a newer home. Unfortunately Molly and I were not well, and the meal times are especially unpleasant, the Indian hospitality practice, is to very insistently, and repeatedly offer food. My adventurous taste sampling yesterday did not seem to agree with me, and I was only interested in liquids or very mild food—in other words something that is not really part of the Indian food diet. After lunch, we drove around to see part of the aluminum and power plants. We also went to the hostel (dorms) where some of the children that attend the school for the blind, deaf and mute stay. They had just added on to accommodate more students. We are very impressed with how well the students manage.

After the visit to the hostel I went back to my hosts since I was still not feeling well, while the others went to get ready for going to a Hindi movie. At the theater you could purchase either a lower level, or upper level seat. We were given the more expensive upper level seats that cost about one dollar. There were not many people there and small baggies of different tasting popcorn were provided—it was a different movie experience. The movie was called “Sunday” and was about a girl who had lost a day, and was trying to piece together what happened. It was in Hindi, and at intermission we decided to go get ready for the Rotary meeting. At the Rotary meeting we did our presentation, and then had dinner. Again we were eating quite late (around 10 p.m.) and we still are not quite used to this practice.

Tuesday, February 5:

Tuesday, February 5, 2008:
In the morning Susan’s host stopped by my hosts since they are business partners—my host makes burlap bags for seed, and Susan’s hosts fills them with seed for cattle. They took us to see both work places. Unfortunately it was rainy, and with the dirt roads this made for rather unpleasant touring conditions.

We stopped at a school—but due to the rainy weather it was closed. Evidently a little rain here makes getting around very difficult. Fortunately today was primarily a travel day for us, so the rain did not affect our plans too much. We had one stop first, to one of the largest earthen dams in India. Security was of course very tight, and we were not allowed to take any photos. The weather was very foggy so it did not really matter that we couldn’t take any photographs. We went up an outlook tower which had a rotating observation area (about 12 feet in diameter). There were a few small breaks in the fog where we were able to get glimpses of a spectacular view.

To get to Korba we were again scheduled to take the train. Our coordinator had arranged for a packed lunch on the train—we were glad to have a break from eating in front of a group, and having to say no thank you. The train ride went fine, and we took advantage of the opportunity to download everyone’s photos. Then we spent an hour looking at them (and not even getting through all of them). We also discovered that we were yet again, entertaining the other passengers who also enjoyed seeing our photos.

The train did not go all the way to Korba, so we were met at Champa by most our hosts who then took us by car to our homes. My host, along with his father was in the automotive part business, primarily for trucks. They had recently built a new home for their joined family, i.e. his family, and his parents to live in. It had some very interesting modern art both on the exterior and the interior. Like all of our hosts they are very gracious and eager to do all they can for us. This means that we are immediately offered some food. I was feeling quite well so I tried all the different things that they brought out for me. Unfortunately I can not remember all the names. The names here in India are very difficult for us to remember and pronounce, in part due to the combinations of letters that we are not very used to.

Later that evening our hosts brought us to a wedding reception—again it was quite the lavish affair, with an elaborately decorated entrance, food of all kinds, shapes, colors, and tastes around the perimeter, and then the grand seating area for the bride and groom. As always the guests were very colorfully and beautifully dressed—especially the women in their sareess, many with elaborate beadwork and gold thread designs. The men typically dress in western clothes, suit and tie, but some wear the more traditional Indian dress, consisting of a long tunic type suit, often decorated with embroidery.

My host’s young son was very attentive and kept bringing me different foods and drinks to try. I was feeling adventurous so I tried most of them. After having our photo with the bride and groom we went home with our hosts—it was the end of another long day and we were all tired.

Molly and Tom on one of our overnight train trips--sleep tight!

A typical fruit stand--yum!

Even the trucks are very bright and colorful here in India!

Some of the Indian food we have been treated to.

The electrical setup is a little different here in India.

The slum near the railway station--site of a Rotary project for young beggars

Our team posing (something we are getting a lot of experience with) in front of the Monkey God--Hunaman

Kathy is doing the posting--with input from the team

Pediatric Ward at hospital in India

Mother with her child in the pediatric ward of a hospital I visited (Kathy)

Science classroom at a very prestigious private school (Dehli Public School)

14 year old boy singing for us at a village "health clinic"

At an Indian wedding reception with the bride and groom

Monday, February 4, 2008

Monday, February 4, 2008
This morning Susan, Molly and I attended the Delhi Public School, which surprisingly (according to the name) is a private school. There are quite a few of these Delhi Public Schools throughout India that are very prestigious and evidently the competition to have your children attend is quite stiff. Attendance is also quite costly, so only children of well to do families attend.

I arrived later than Susan and Molly (evidently I was on Indian Standard Time), and the entire school was assembled to greet us. All the children were standing in straight lines, neatly dressed in their school uniforms. At the school we visited several classrooms and saw some of the salad competition that the 3 – 5th standard students had over the weekend. The judging was based on the artistic and creative arrangement of the food. It was quite interesting to see their works. In the classrooms some students asked about American schools—there are quite a few differences in terms of the facilities, the time, the level of commitment to their studies, and the extra curricular activities. We have learned that in India although school is over around 2:00 in the afternoon it is very common for students to receive several hours of tutoring from teachers in the afternoon and evening, in addition to regular study time.

While we were at the school, Dani and Tom visited a Coca-Cola bottling plant, which Dani said looked very much like a company in the states. They also visited a hospital which did NOT look like any hospital that we have in the states. As their host explained the emphasis in the hospitals in India is not on sanitation but on their condition. It is hard to imagine being so crowded in a large room with the other patients.

Next some of our hosts took us to do a little shopping. Unfortunately one of the store owners had just passed away so the market that my host took me to was closed to honor the store owner. We did visit a few other stores, but it is a little difficult to shop. Our hosts also packed a lunch for us to take on the train. The train was about half hour late, but thankfully was not full at all. This time we were not in a sleeper car—five seats across, three on one side and two on the other side of the aisle. On the train we were able to rest, and Dani and Molly were quite entertained by a new “friend” they made—a little mouse who they lured out with some bread.

Upon our arrival we met our hosts and then they took our luggage to their homes while our coordinator took us to one of his hotels to freshen up and have some tea. He also owns several stores and he took us to one where we were able to do a little shopping. Then we went to another one of his hotels where we had soup, and a friend of his sent over some books from his store. We were thrilled to be able to buy several well known books in Hindi to bring back as souvenirs.

Next we went to a join Rotary gathering, it was not an official meeting but we still gave our presentation and were given gifts and went through all the other formalities before enjoying dinner. After dinner we went back to our hosts, where I am sure we all went to bed.

Sunday, February 3, 2008

Sunday, February 3, 2008:
This morning we arrived in Rourkela around 9:00 and we greeted with the usual group of Rotarians and floral bouquets. Next out hosts took us to their homes were for breakfast and a chance to shower. The overnight train trips and the constant packing up are wearing on us.

Rourkela has a very large steel plant but due to security reasons we were not able to tour the plant. Its presence is very noticeable throughout the city with a number of signs by the Steel Plant encouraging safe driving conditions and a clean city. I saw a number of signs about not using plastic. My host said the plastic bags are not biodegradable and with all the garbage this has become a problem.

After breakfast we were all taken by our hosts to the largest statue of the monkey god, Hunaman. It seemed to be a popular spot, surrounded by other temples and carts with a variety of food and souvenirs to purchase. While we were there we had a number of photo opportunities—we are still surprised how much our hosts and Rotarians love to take photo after photo—or as say here “snap”. We also saw a wedding ceremony and Molly and Tom joined in the dancing for a little bit—much to the enjoyment of all.

The next stop was by the river where there was a site for cremation and also numerous places for bathing and washing clothes. We sat on the steps and watched some of the women washing clothes by hand and were very grateful for our modern washing machines and dryers that we are so used to in the states.

Our next stop was lunch in the garden of a hotel—it was a very nice setting and we are beginning to get used to the Indian food. We are still not used to our host’s eagerness and insistence that we try all the food and take more—but we are learning that it is the Indian’s way of being a good host.

After lunch we were taken to a slum where an Interact group has started a project for the young beggars by the railway station. The slum is right next to the train and a number of children are beggars and also on drugs. We did experience the beggars at the train station, and it is very uncomfortable having small children, dressed in rags petting our feet and imploring us for some money with their big soulful eyes. The project takes the youth into a shelter for a month or two and provides food, shelter and education. The pull for the children to help support their families with begging is strong so it is difficult to keep the children at the shelter. After a month or two at the shelter some go to a boarding school near to Rourkela where some have been quite successful in their studies. The poverty and need here in India is so great, and there are a number of intricate problems with the poverty that are not so easy to correct. I admire young interact and Rotaract clubs for taking on such projects, but sometimes I wonder if it is just a drop in the bucket. I guess it is better to do something—and sometimes these grass roots efforts and blossom.

Some of the group went on top of a hill to view the city and I think see another temple, but my hosts recognized that I was quite tired and took me back to their home. They had internet access (although it was extremely slow) so I was able to check some email, and reorganize my suitcase again—it seems to be a daily routine. I think we are all counting the days until we get to do some laundry.

In the evening we attended a joint Rotary meeting, gave our presentation, exchanged banners, received more bouquets and of course took many photos. We also were treated to some tribal dances and dinner. By 10:00 we were all very ready for bed—and knew that the next morning we had to pack to head for the next city. We certainly are becoming more sympathetic to those who travel a lot, and are hounded by the paparazzi.

Saturday, February 2, 2008

Saturday, February 2, 2008:
This morning, after awaking to the sound of goats, motorcycles, and dogs, I was able to have a warm “shower”, it was very nice. Not the same as the showers that we have in the states but similar. My host’s wife brought my breakfast into my room, which was a quite lavish room. She, along with all the other hosts we have had, has tried very hard to provide food that we like. For my breakfast she had prepared toast and an omelet—it tasted wonderful.

After breakfast my host brought me to the Hospital for the Blind where our group was given the grand tour. There was also a computer with internet access so I was able to very quickly check some of our email. After the tour of the hospital we were taken to the Rice Industry Company. There we were again given flowers and a grand tour of the scientific facilities and the grounds where they have rice paddies, fish hatcheries, and a number of other types of plants that they are growing. It was quite interesting seeing all that they were working on. We were also served lunch, which was again prepared to be somewhat mild to accommodate our “sensitive pallets”.
After lunch we quickly loaded up in one vehicle to drive to Kornak, where the famous sun temple is. It was a about a two hour drive and as we are learning the roads here are not quite the same as they are in the states. The trip was well worth it once we finally got there, it took a little longer because we had to stop to get a police escort (I’m not quite sure why) and then make some arrangements for admission.

Our guide told us that the temple was built in 12 years by 1200 workmen toiling day and night. It is a magnificent piece—so grand and intricate. It is currently being repaired because the proximity to the sea makes it difficult to maintain with the humid conditions.

After the tour we had to quickly get back in the vehicle to get back to Cuttack. The rest of the evening was quite a rush. We first attended a Rotary meeting where we also had dinner, and then we went back to our hosts to quickly pack and head to the train station for another overnight train trip. We were not the first stop on the train so there were already people on the train and this made it a little difficult to fit our luggage in by our bunks. It did not all fit so we ended up piling some of it in the middle and then chaining it with the chain and lock that Susan’s host had given her. Evidently this is common practice to help discourage the theft that can take place on the train.

A passing Rickshaw--typical mode of transportation

Enjoying a musical performance at a school for the blind

Kingfisher--what a striking bird!

Susan and Molly trying coconut juice

Dani after her swim in the Bay of Bengal--Indian style--fully clothed

On a boat in the Bay of Bengal

At the District Conference with some Rotarians

At one of the temples we visited

Friday, February 1

Friday, February 1, 2008:
This morning we got up early to get to K.K.’s house around 7:15. There we were served breakfast and then loaded up to the two vehicles to head to Cattuck. We drove along the highway which at times resembled more of a old county road in need of some serious repair work. It was about a four hour drive which gave us a chance to talk with each other. We enjoy the host family stays but it is nice to have some time together as a team where we are not feeling obligated to try different foods, and visit with them.

We arrived at the hotel around 12:30 and were greeted by a number of Rotarians and of course presented with a bouquet of flowers. After getting to go to the bathroom—we were all more than ready for it after the road trip with no stops; we went to our host homes.

My host lives in what is called a “joined family”, which means his extended family, his mother, his wife and their children, and then his brother and his family. I think there home consists of three floors—each family lives on a different floor, the main level has a kitchen and eating area where they often all eat together.

After arriving to our host family’s we all tried to get on the internet—we hadn’t been able to lately and were quite eager to check our email. Susan and Tom were able to get on but the rest of us weren’t, I think in part due to the sea cable that is broken and according to the news it will take 10 – 15 days to repair. It is hard to imagine being without internet access, but we are learning that although India is quite savvy technology wise, not many homes have internet access, and if they do it is usually dial-up and very, very slow!

After having lunch with our hosts, who it appears have been instructed not to serve us real spicy food, we went to visit an “Old Persons Home”. This is the only home of this type in Cattuck and one of the club’s projects. There are two separate buildings, one is for those who can not afford to pay and the other one with nicer accommodations is for those can pay. There are currently 15 residents who can’t pay and 1 who can afford to pay. The total capacity in both is around 40, but they have not even come close to that. There is a growing need, but the “joined family” system that is commonly practiced in India takes care of their aging relatives.

The area around the home was very desolate, Cattuck is bordered on both sides by rivers which currently are quite low, and so there were empty, sandy river beds around the home. They had a small garden to grow some vegetables but the sandy soil is not very conducive for good growing conditions.

After our visit we went back to our host homes and changed for the joint Rotary meeting. We have been very surprised at this visit that when they say the meeting starts at 7:00 p.m. it does—what a change, and how does one know if the stated time will be adhered to or whether it will be an hour or so later? The meeting was efficiently run and this time we were served hot soup instead of tea beforehand.

After the meeting we went home with our host families for dinner. The two kids in my host family had already eaten (around 8:00 p.m.) and their mother and father typically eat around 10:00 or 10:30. It was obvious that I was quite tired so my host had dinner with me around 9:30. All the travel and different home stays is catching up with us, but all are eager for us to see and meet many different people.

Thursday, January 31

Thursday, January 31, 2008:
This morning after breakfast with our hosts—I was served what my host said is a typical Indian breakfast—it consisted of what looked like crepes but was made out of wheat and rice filled with a potato—curry mixture, some more potato curry mixture, and a coconut juice sauce to dip it in, I also had several other dishes that were a mixture of various vegetables and beans all mixed in some sort of sauce. It was a meal with the type of foods that we would more likely have for lunch or dinner, and was not quite what I am used to eating for breakfast, but I did not want to appear rude. We are all tired of trying so many different types of food, and being watched so closely what we eat. I think all of our hosts feel like we are going to starve because they are continually asking us to have more food. It is a little wearisome.

After breakfast we were brought to a school athletic day where the students were also performing some patriotic dances. We were given tea and were seated under a special tent along with the honored guest, who I think was the head of the Indian Navy. We stayed for about a half an hour watching the dances, and then K.K., our site coordinator, announced “let’s move”.

We loaded up and traveled on to the next stop—a poor village that one of the Rotary wives, Dani’s host’s wife, has been working with to help improve the sanitation conditions, their access to health care, and to provide some education and vocational training. Evidently it was getting too crowded in Barhampur so groups of people were moved out to these “villages” but were not provided with anything else. We were seated in the “health clinic” and were entertained by some of the villagers; one was a fourteen year old boy who due to the poor living conditions was the size of a seven or eight year old. We were also shown some of the handicrafts that the villagers make to sell at the market to provide some other type of income and vocation. It clearly is not an easy life and they face many challenges. It is clear that there are endless opportunities for providing help to the poor in India. They also offered us some food but our hosts discretely suggested that we only eat the bananas and give the rest to the children.

Next we stopped at two temples before heading to the next school. This school was a private school which was quite a contrast to the village. It still does not even come close to the school facilities that we have in the United States but it was a huge step up from the village. We were introduced to the standard 12 class, again they were all dressed in their school uniforms and the girls were seated on one side, and the boys on the other. Afterward many of the students wanted us to sign their books and give them some words of advice. Again quite a contrast from how our high school students in the United States respond to visitors. At the school we were served lunch which included some fresh watermelon that K.K. stopped for and bought along the way to the school.

After the visit we were brought back to our host’s homes where we were able to relax and visit. My host showed me a presentation that he gives to undergraduate students about the different kinds of defects and abnormalities found in children, and the surgical procedures that he performs on them. It was very interesting and a little graphic; his youngest daughter also watched the presentation and was not at all fazed by some of the photos. I tried to get on the internet to catch up on email and update our blog but the dial up connection was not working. We are all a little surprised at how difficult it has been to get online at different places.
Before our presentation to the joint Rotary meeting we all gathered at K.K.’s home where he presented each of us with a box of incense that is made right there in his home. After our presentation at the meeting we all headed to a wedding reception of one of the Rotarian’s daughter. We were quite surprised to see another Caucasian woman dressed in a Sari. We found out that she was the daughter-n-law of the Rotarian; she was married to his older son whom she met while he was working in Melbourne, Australia, as an accountant. She was delightful to visit with and it was nice talking to someone with an accent that was not quite so difficult to understand. We also “blessed” the wedding couple by sprinkling rice over their head and of course having our photos taken with them. At the reception there was plenty of food along with an Indian version of karaoke, the performers were all very good. It had been another long day and we were all ready to head back to our hosts to pack.

Wednesday, January 30

Wednesday, January 30, 2008:
This morning we got up early to get ready to board the train to our next city visit—Berhampur. It was not as crowded on the train or at the station so we did not have any problems. The train ride took about 4 hours and we were able to download our photos onto my laptop and rest. Molly was also able to get her shoes polished—for about 25 cents, unfortunately they were not able to polish mine since they were navy (not black or brown). Upon arrival we were greeted by several Rotarians and taken to our host homes. My host is a pediatric surgeon and his wife is a gynecologist, they live in an apartment building close to the hospitals. They have two daughters, their oldest daughter, aged 16, is in 10th standard and in one month she will be taking the national examinations given to all students in 10th standard (grade). It is a very important examination and their performance on it determines whether or not they will continue on or repeat some of their course work. My host’s wife is taking off a month from her work at the hospital to help their daughter prepare for the exams.

After “freshening up”, eating breakfast and lunch we all were taken to a school for blind children that the five Rotary clubs here in Berhampur sponsor. When we first arrived I thought we were at an abandoned group of buildings, all the children and staff were inside awaiting our arrival. We were each presented with a beautiful rose and then ushered into a room where all the students and staff were seated (on the floor), and we were all seated in white plastic chairs. The students sang a song for us, again accompanied by a “flute organ”; it looks and sounds a bit like an accordion that sits on the floor. Then one student read a very eloquent welcome to us, he then presented us with the Braille copy of his speech. We were very impressed and touched by the students and staff. As my host put it, we don’t realize what we have until it is missing. This entire exchange I think has been a very humbling experience for all of us, as we begin to realize all that we have personally, and in our country that we take for granted.

We toured the school and the teachers showed us how they teach students the Braille alphabet, and a calculator for blind students that uses small sticks of metal, with one smooth end and one cut-out end, these pieces are then positioned in holes at various angles to represent different numbers.

After our visit at the school we drove to the Gopalpur beach, it was quite windy and the Bay of Bengal was very rough. There were a number of fishing boats tied up which had come in early since the water was so rough. We walked along the beach for a little ways with our hosts and then drove a very short distance to a nearby hotel. Dani did not come with us to the beach because her hosts took her with them to a Threading ceremony for a young boy in the Brahman caste.

At the hotel we sat outside and were served drinks and snacks—french fries, and something similar to onion rings. We did not solve all the world problems but we had some good conversation about differences between India and the United States and problems faces by our countries. Around 9:30 we moved inside (it was getting quite chilly out) and had dinner. This time we had Chinese noodles and vegetables. Evidently Chinese restraints are quite popular here in India. We thought that was all, but it was only the first course—followed by the more traditional Indian fare—rice, small tortillas made out of wheat, various types of vegetables and beans in various flavors of curry and seasonings, and also some fried fish. Typically Indians eat with their fingers and use roti (like our tortillas) as a type of eatable utensil. After their meal wash their hands in a nearby “washing station” (i.e. large sink).

After dinner we all went home with our hosts. My host, who had performed several surgeries in the morning needed to check on some of his patients and asked if I could join him. We went to two different hospitals, and it was an amazing experience, so very different from hospitals in the United States. I only saw the pediatric wards. The ward consisted of several large rooms with a number of metal beds with a thin mattress and sheet, it appeared that most of the family all slept together on that bed, or underneath it, or on the cement in the hallways. There was no privacy for the families—they were all together there with the other families. The children that had the surgery were on the beds covered with a small blanket; they were not in any special hospital gowns and were not in any diapers. My host said that three meals were served each day, but I saw the families eating food that they had prepared or brought with them, and serving food to their child. Health care in India is provided by the government although I think my host said there are some private ambulance services. Hospital costs can vary from city to city, I believe he said that a C-section costs about 120 rupees (three dollars) in Berhampur, but in Delhi it is about 600 rupees.
After completing his rounds we returned to his family’s apartment and I visited with them about the 10th standard examinations that oldest daughter is preparing for. She has her study time all mapped out, and works through study guides that look similar to study guides for the ACTs or SATs. She spends nearly all of her time studying for the exams staying up until 1:00 a.m. now, but she said that when the exams begin she will probably be up until 3:00 a.m. studying—quite a contrast to amount of time that high school students in the United States spend preparing for exams.

Tuesday, January 29

Tuesday, January 29, 2008
This morning we had breakfast at our host’s home and went to Susan’s host home. Her host is the minister of tourism, living in a government provided home, and had arranged for us to see some of the special sites in the city. Both Susan and Molly were not feeling well, so Dani’s host gave Susan an acupuncture treatment to help settle her stomach. He put several very small, thin needles in her hand and told her to keep them in for about half an hour. Our first stop of the day was a hotel management school where we were given the grand tour—complete with several photographers recording our every move. They had a number of “classroom- kitchens” where they were making a variety of dishes, cooking in huge wok-type pots over gas stoves. They also provide training on table setting, bar tending and hotel administration. After the tour we were served a number of dishes that they had prepared. Molly and Susan were still not feeling well, and trying more food with a variety of unique tastes and smells was just about the last thing that they were interested in. Not a comfortable position to be in as a guest.

The next stop was at the only drycleaner in town and it had only been in business for 20 days. Outside I was thrilled to see a beautiful kingfisher—Susan was able to get a terrific photo which I will try to put on the blog. The next stop was lunch at another club—again more food. The first course was a mild soup that we all liked very much—mushrooms, carrots and a onions with no strong unusual seasoning, which was a welcome relief to our stomachs. After a bathroom stop (we are learning to use the western toilets whenever we can), we headed to the Khandagiri Udayagiri caves. The caves were small natural ones in reddish colored rock and came complete with monkeys. We were thrilled to see monkeys—up close. Our guides warned us not to irritate them or get too close because they have sharp clothes and sometimes a mean temperament. Molly really got an up-close and personal view when one monkey unexpected hopped on her back—wow!

The views from the caves were terrific, it is nice to see the city from above, and the cave formations in the rocks were fun to climb around. We were also able to climb up to another temple. As is the custom we all had to remove our shoes, and this time we also had to have our feet rinsed off before we could proceed up the steps to the temple. At the temple we could ring various bells, and build rock piles asking for various blessings. By the caves there was also a place for blessing where a small rock is tied to a tree with bits of cloth or paper.

Our next stop was a local crafts market where we were—yes you guessed it given tea and various sweets, and were able to do some shopping. Orissa is known for its artwork—especially tribal artwork and there were beautiful carvings out of wood and stone, along with colorful fabric and framed prints.

After changing at our host’s homes for the Rotary meeting we gave our presentation for several clubs. The district governor was also there, stopping on his way back home from the district conference. After the meeting we all had a meal and then returned to our hosts. Dani’s host went to both Susan and Molly’s host homes to give them an acupuncture treatment before bed and they both said that they slept very well and fortunately felt much better the next day.

Monday, January 28

Monday, January 28:
This morning we arrived in Bhubaneshwar around 8:30 in the morning. We slept pretty well on the train ride but were glad to be at our destination—all of our luggage also made it and we were very careful to each keep track of our bags. We received quite a work out carrying our luggage up and down the stairs to get over the tracks and out of the station—we were hesitant to use the porters, but after our strenuous work-out decided that next time we might. Our site-coordinator, “Jack”, who was a GSE team leader to Alaska last year, took us to his guest house, which also contained his office. It was a large guest house with several bathrooms where we were all able to take bucket showers with hot water. It felt wonderful to get “freshened up” as they put it here after sleeping on the train in our clothes. We also had a chance to download all of our photos onto the laptop and our flash drives.

As is the tradition we were provided food—I think Jack gave special instructions for our food since we were served french fries, toast, jam, hard boiled eggs and fresh fruit, along with tea, coffee and water. It was again comforting to eat food that we knew and our stomachs were used to. Jack’s office had internet access so we had to chance to check our email, but the connection was very slow so we were not able to update our blog. Then Jack took us to a private club where we had lunch—again we were treated to many different dishes—this time however, it was a “Chinese Restaurant”.

After lunch we were taken to the ASHA home, “House of Hope”, that a Rotary Club in Bhub… and a partner club in Muenster, Germany founded, sponsor, and run for children whose parents are lepers. The school had 20 children, whose parents must both have had leprosy. The children live in the home, and attend public school. Their parents are allowed to visit every Sunday. The house was very clean, and the children were neatly groomed in their uniforms. There were two new computers for the children to use, and the rooms had several bunk beds—everything was neatly picked up. After touring the house the children sang and played for us—both in English and Hindi. They were very charming and we were all moved by their smiling, beautiful faces. Two women lived in the house to help care for them. After the visit we went back to Jack’s guest house to change and pack up our bags. Next was our presentation at a joint Rotary meeting for several clubs, and a chance to meet our host families. As in the Indian tradition, we started the meeting an hour or so late so we did not get to the club for dinner until around 10:00 p.m. After little sleep on the train we were all very tired so we were not very good conversationalists. We were not very hungry, so when our food arrived around 11:00 we tried to politely take only a little bit—of course all of our hosts were watching to see whether or not we like the food so it was difficult to say no and not eat much. I think we were as exhausted as we had been the whole trip and were very eager to get to bed!